The Andaman Chronicles - Day 1

The Sun was rising when we got up, gathered our luggage and drove to the harbour. It was busy with local people, good looking tan Asian features, passengers, traders, fishermen. Boats were coming in and out, small and large. Wooden trading boats carrying bags up to the top.

Our boat, Genesis, a white old trading vessel completely renewed, was waiting in the peer. We run, drop our bags and jumped in. Other boats were waiting for the peer to be free. The trip to the Similan islands would take few hours. During the journey we were introduced to the crew and had a general briefing about the code of conduct, procedures and what was expecting us for the following days.

Our first dive was taking place between the islands Koh Ha and Koh Hok. Elsa, our guide, gave us a complete briefing of the diving activities. The group was split in two. I was diving with Basha, Francis and Niko. After setting up all the equipment we did a buddy check. My buddy was Basha. At captain's orders we jumped in the water. The descent was easy and smooth with a gentle current and schools of fish all around. We were about to explore a reef. We were welcome at the bottom by a moray eel laying in a rock. After few photo shots we headed to the reef. The wall was decorated with corals and gorgonians of all colours. Clown fishes were escorting the anemones like faithful guards. In a hole we found a big lobster which hide as soon as we came close. The dive went well and we took the opportunity to take as many photos as possible to document all amazing marine life we found. After a safety stop we surfaced and were picked up by the boat.

The second dive was as good and similar as the first one, but in an amazing forest of corals. It was located on the west side of Koh Pa-Yu island. On ascent we were visited by some travelling tuna fishes and a very curious barracuda.

The sun was low when we returned to Koh Hok where we were going to spend the night. The boat anchored on a bay and I went for a swim. After a refreshing branch we prepared for a night dive. Some of us were reluctant. A night dive is a wonderful experience but always a challenge. I prepared my torches. I was going to take two as a precaution for a failure. Briefing, kit-up and buddy check. All were ready to jump in the water as soon as the sun hide on the horizon. One, two three, jump. We descended and gathered in the bottom. Last check, all buddy pairs together, enough air, torches working, computers working, let’s go. After few meters we met a big octopus hunting crabs. Basha got a bit to close and the octopus decided to have a closer look at the intruder. She swam back and joined me for safety. We explored the reefs looking at every hole with the light of our torches. Most of the fishes we were used to see during the daylight dives were hiding under the rocks. All kinds of colourful fishes. Other beasts were out there hunting. Crabs, moray eels, barracudas, octopuses, congers, cuttlefishes. Watching the crabs feeding was an amazing view. Not so nice was witnessing barracudas hunting the poor fishes as soon as they were illuminated by our lights. We were somehow helping the predators.

We ascended to a plateau to do a safety stop. While waiting for the decompression we explored the rocks around. I was trying to find crabs among the corals when a shadow projected under the torch of my light. I looked around, Basha was behind me. I circled around and switched off my second torch. A huge dark mass passed on my left. Using my torch I signed to Basha and she followed me. We went after the dark shadow. With our torches together we found it, a big moray eel, as thick as my hip and with more than two meters longs. It was hunting. But then her interest focused on us. When I was getting closer it changed direction and headed for me. I changed direction but Basha was just behind me and became the target of the serpent. Basha ascended looking for the safety of open water and I tried to follow but then my backup torch switched off. I was left with the main one which battery was already low. With the low light I could not see the monster anymore. Basha was swimming away and getting far. I could only see the flash of her torch. I became still thinking what to do, trying to remind anything from my training. Now I was the prey. I circled around trying to find the enemy but the light was to low to see far away. I noticed a shadow on my right, but could not identify if it was the serpent. Suddenly a strong flash light focused on me coming from the top. I looked up and saw Elsa doing a signal asking if I was Ok. I replied the Ok signal back with the remaining of my torch light. Basha joined her and I ascended to meet them. We were back to the surface, no sign of our hunter any more.